"Long Road, Swift Bear & Hawk Man at The Little Bighorn" (c) 2007 Stu Jenks
I'm
not having a good time. Actually, I'm kind of pissed off. I'm beginning
to wonder if driving hundreds of miles to visit here was such a good
idea. But my gut said go, so I went.
The
day began great, with prayer bundles at Bear's Lodge and the drive on
Interstate 90 across Wyoming was quite a delight. I love Wyoming now. Didn't know I'd
be a Prairie Person but I am. The yellow grasses, the numerous streams
and rivers, the antelope here and there and everywhere. And the women
I've seen are quite fetching too. Not classically beautiful but a number
I've seen have long hair, often blond with bangs, strong noses, and
tight jeans with ranch stains on them. Men ain't bad either, rugged, clear eyed men, among the usual pasty suburbanites that you find everywhere in America. And the biggest surprise was I
could get NPR all over the state, even in bum-fuck-nowhere, which is
90% of Wyoming. A generally polite people is what I found. (I had a nice exchange with
a couple of Mormon missionaries at a McDonalds's in Gillette. Memorable
quote: 'So are you a convert and lifelong?" asked the young man
confusing me for a LDS. "Neither," I said, " I'm Episcopalian.")
But
there was some sadness as I drove. Antelope were ubiquitous, like
pigeons in a park, but there was a noticeable absence of Buffalo. They
were the kings of the Prairie, 150 years ago and now they are only
ghosts, memories, and the occasional few like at Bear Butte, as
remembrances of a time that will never return. Heavy sigh.
The
Big Horn Mountains rose to the west of Sheridan, as I drove on. Part of
the Rockies. The Rockies are always good to see. Into the Crow Rez and before you
know it, I was driving along the banks of the Little Bighorn River. I
knew from my Montana road map that I could probably see part of the
Battlefield from I-90 and as I looked up I could see the low prairie
ridge, the flats along the river, Pine trees (?), a graveyard, and some
government buildings, but it was the river bank that struck me and
first pissed me off.
"You
were a fucking idiot, George," I said out loud as I drive the last few
miles before I exited the Interstate. "How could you have fucking
missed the smoke coming from hundreds and hundreds of Indian campfires? (They
say there were close to a thousand lodges there, that day) Were you
that god damn arrogant? You fucking idiot. You deserved to get you ass
kicked!"
I
exited the Interstate but my anger didn't subside once I enter Little
Bighorn National Battlefield. I did see a Prairie Dog town when I entered the park and that cheered me up for a minute but it didn't last. I was surprised that I wasn't sad, just more
and more irritate. Pissed off that there is a National Cemetery at
Little Bighorn, with only white military dead buried there, many who were not even at the Battle. A white obelisk on
a hill marked the places where many of the 7th Calvary died.
(But not really. Farther down to the north was the area when most of the
whites died.) Most of the focus at the Park was on Custer, but in
recent years, an Indian Memorial had been built, but the sculpture was
quite ugly I think and even though the U.S. government had tried to
honor all the tribes who fought and died, it felt forced and phony to
me. But they tried and I read that the tribes appreciated the attempt. But still. This should be Lakota/Cheyenne holy ground, of a great victory against tyranny, not some sad memorial to an arrogant asshole.
Now,
I'm walking back to my truck after seeing Last Stand Hill, the Indian
Memorial, and a few white headstones near the path. There were a
couple of red granite headsstones, marking where two Lakotas had died
but it wasn't nearly enough. Jesus Fucking Christ! This was the high
watermark for the American Indian, their Frederickburg, their great battle victory, days
before the American Centennial in 1876, where the tribes kicked ass and
took names (and then it all slowly went to shit culminating at the Massacre
at Wounded Knee in 1890.) I'm not naïve thinking that the victors don't
write the history books but again, this should be a monument to a victory more
than a memorial of a defeat. Fuck. I stop and pause. My gut says go to
the end of the road. There is something there for you, it says. I sure as fuck
hope so. I've taken one photograph and that may be all I take here. I could give a shit. I get in my truck and back out of the Visitors' Center parking
lot, trying not to run over the slow obese white people that are in my path.
According to my Park map, at the end of this road is the place
where Reno and Benteen held their ground under siege. (After Custer and his troup had
been killed, the tribes tried to kill the rest of the 7th
Calvary under Major Reno and Captain Benteen. Reno had begun his attack
up the river but was quickly routed and sent scrambling up to a ridgeline. Lucky
for him, Benteen and his men arrived at what is now called Reno Hill just
as the scrambling troopers of Benteen got there and that is what saved him and his men from the same fate as Custer. Benteen and Reno were under siege
for the rest of the day and all of the next. The fighting was fierce on
those two days. The Lakota and Cheyenne left on the third day. some Whites say it was
because they heard that more Calvary were coming. Some Indians say that
we just left because we were done. We couldn't kill all of them but that was OK. So we left. I choose to believe the latter.) I pass more white headstones
where Calvary men had died as I drive south and it just pisses me off
more. I want to stop and walk in the prairie grass but that is
forbidden by the Park Service. We are in the center of the Crow Indian
Reservation but all is see is white people, white crosses, white
things.
The
presentation I heard at the Visitors' Center echoes in my head: that
Reno was lucky that he didn't get massacred too. That archeological
evidence proves that what the Indians have been saying for a 130 years
is true, that what Custer did was foolish and not valorous, that he
rode right into the heart of the gathering of tribes and unlike other
times, when he out-powered and out-manned a village and killed all who were there, this time he was
outnumbered by at least four to one, maybe nine to one, and simply had the Karmic Wheel roll very hardly on top of him. What goes around, comes
around and it came down with a vengeance on Custer and his crew, on
June 25th, 1876. That throughout the two days of fighting,
258 U.S. Soldiers were killed and that Indian dead may have been as few
as 30 or as many as a couple hundred. We all kind know the gist of the
story, but the one thing that I learned is that Benteen and Reno's troops
came this close to being whipped out too. This close.
As
I get farther away from Custer Hill, the less traffic I see. Fewer
cars, fewer people. I talk with an Australian man and ask if
he has seen any red headstones, those for the Native dead. He said yes,
at the end of the road. My mood brightens a bit.
The
road ends many miles from the Visitors' Center. I'm all alone. I'm at
Reno Hill. I'm feeling much calmer now. It's around five in the
afternoon. I park the Pathfinder, and grab my Pentax 35 mm with the SFX film and my Canon 30D with its four gig card. Maybe I'll take a few more shots. I'm a long way from any rangers or white folk or anything but
grass.
I
walk to the south and as I get to the grass's edge, I see four or five red
headstones fifty or so feet away. The grass leading to them is matted
down. Seems a lot of people have walked to them. I stop and say a quiet
'O My God'.
I
take off the lens cap of my Canon and I walk to the nearest stone. When
I get there I bent down and place my left hand on top of the stone. The
granite is polished smooth, with a rounded, not flat top. I see the name Swift
Bear. I think of all the bears I've seen and experienced in the last
few days. Bear Butte. Bear's Lodge. Now, Swift Bear.
And then I'm hit by The Loss.
It's
as if the land has come up through me, from my feet, up my legs, into my heart, into my lungs,
into my eyes, into my brain, and I feel and see and breathe in the enormity of The Loss.
The Loss of the Buffalo.
The Loss of the Land.
The Loss of the Way of Life.
The Loss of the Indian.
Every
tribe that is gone, every child dead from smallpox, every woman without a
husband, every warrior killed trying to keep his family alive. All of
it.
And I drop to the ground, hunker down with my left hand on the grass to steady myself.
And I cry. I wail. I make a lot of sound. I'm surprised by all the sound. I don't stop it.
I do this for a while.

Half-hour
later, I'm heading back to the Park entrance. I stop along the way, for
no reason, except to postpone my leaving. I'm having a good time
now. I see another red headstone, this time for Long Road. A staff with prayer bundles tied around its length rests at the base of the stone. I take its
picture. I place a hand on the stone and thank him for the sacrifice he made.
I
see another stone. I don't remember the name. I find the red prayer
bundle in my pocket, the one I made at BR-549 Studio before I came on this trip. I
hesitate. I'm not an Indian. I'm a White Guy. Is it right that I do this here, give a
bundle here? I don't know.
Then I feel a presence off my left shoulder. And then I hear a voice.
"Thank You."
I
tied the bundle to a shaft of grass. I leave the lens cap on. I wipe my
eyes with the back of my hand and smile at the setting sun.