"Tijuana River Surf, United States/Mexico Border" (c) 2010 Stu Jenks
The breaks are just too gnarly here, with the strong rips and all. Plus I’m just a beginner, a grom, surfing mostly wave scraps. But it hasn’t rained recently so there shouldn’t be much sewage in the water, and it is a beautiful day; but there might be a dead cow or two, bobbing in the sea. That doesn’t bother me. It’s the rips that scare the hell out of me.
I’ll just walk along the shore, take in the crashing sound of the beach breaks, and feel the warm sand between my toes. I'll surf another day.
[Note: The above image and story are from earlier this year. Today, August 17th, I'm in Southern Mississippi, soon to drive to Vicksburg. And last night, I drove through what I found out this morning was a tropical storm. Makes senses. I pulled over into the little town of Tickfaw, Lousiana after large parts of trees flew in front of my car. Talked with a trucker named James at the Shell station there while we waited for the storm to pass. I'll tell that story later. Hell of a nice man though. Oh. I'm same and sound but it was quite the frog strangler last night. I've seen rain like that, but I've never driven through a storm like that before. But you know me. It was fun, and I got some videotape of it all while driving over Lake Ponchartrain. Soon to be on a YouTube near you.]
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