The Indian Wars: Chapter Four: & The Transpersonal Papers: Chapter Three: “In A Secret Place"
The Indian Wars: Chapter Four: &
The Transpersonal Papers: Chapter Three:
“In A Secret Place, Cochise’s Stronghold, Dragoon Mountains, Arizona"
© 2005, 2008 Stu Jenks
Last time I was at Cochise’s Stronghold was in the early 1990's, after Karen and I broke up. (Actually she left me. Back then I was a therapeutic pain-in-the-ass, sharing too much of what I felt. It killed the relationship. I don’t blame her for leaving. As a friend once said “180 degrees from sick is still sick.” I went from being a man who shared nothing to someone who shared everything. I’m surprised I had any friends at all back then, much less a beautiful lover.) As I recall, I didn't hike all the way up to the Stronghold Saddle that day, but turned around after a mile or so. Don't know if I was too depressed to hike or just tired. It was a bad time.
The first time I came here was in 1983, soon after I moved to Arizona from North Carolina. That time I did hike to the Saddle and took some photos with my old Kodak bellows camera. If I remember right, it was a relatively tough hike but not too bad. Then again, I was 28 at the time, and you can bet your bottom dollar, I was stoned on Colombian Dope, up and back. Back then, I was a true believer of the Stay High Philosophy. But I'm 50 now. Not stoned today, nor have I partaken in many a year.
The tides of war raged through this part of Arizona in the mid to late 1800's, but what this part of the Dragoon Mountains are primarily known for today, is that up there, somewhere, in the high rocks, Cochise's bones lay hidden, and no one, Red or White or Brown, knows where those bones are.
I’ve been hiking the Stronghold Trail now for a good couple of hours. Soon I’ll be at the Saddle. It’s a hot summer day, hovering around a hundred. Lights bad for photography but really good for hiking and just seeing and being.
Today, for some reason, a lot of anger and judgment came up and out of me on the first couple miles of trail. I’m used to quietly talking to God on the trail but it is uncommon for me to complain to God. I surely did today.
The vitriolic heat surprised me. Guess I had a few things to rage about:
1) Angry at Annie breaking up with me a few weeks back. (Seems reasonable.)
2) Disgust with the loud obese white people on horseback I passed a while ago. (Poor horses. They were laboring under the weight.)
3) Silent rage at the guy I saw hiking while talking on his cellphone. (So weird.)
4) Judging myself for living a pretty safe life, with a secure day-job, when I could be taking more risks. (I could be flying more, but alas, the fears of getting poorer and more in debt.)
And I spoke a lot of this out loud. No one was around. It was weird, even for me.
But that was down below. I don’t feel angry now. Just hot and happy
Then I thought of my Dad, and spoke aloud to him.
"Hey, Dad, could you be here with me right now?" I ask.
Suddenly, just behind me, off my left shoulder I feel my father.
"Hey, could you make your presence physically known to me?"
I feel the light weight of a hand on my shoulder. (I’m not making this up.) "Thanks Dad," I say.
"I gotta tell ya, Dad, it's quite a mind-fuck having you around now sometimes. When you were alive, you were one judgmental son of a bitch. I hardly wanted to talk to you at all then. Sure, I knew that you loved me, and you told me you did love me often, which was nice; but mostly you were a jerk, who made it pretty clear you didn’t like me. So, except for near the end of your life, I kept a safe distance. Now, you're this kind, encouraging, compassionate presence that want me to be all that I can be, that nudges me to be happy and seems to be here to help. It’s great, Dad. Don’t get me wrong, but it is a mind-fuck."
I can feel his smile.
"Could you do me a favor?" I ask.
"What's that?" he says. (I swear I heard his voice.)
"Could you be around when I'm confused sometimes, without me asking for you to drop by? Is that against the Woo Woo rules on the Other Side? Now, I don't want you around all the time, mind you, not when I’m having sex or something, and not every time I'm confused. Just be here sometimes to help me through some tough times, when I forget to ask you to show up. Could you do that? I know you are probably busy with your own work,, maybe being with Mom and doing other nice-dead-people stuff , but then again, in reality, there is no such thing as time or space or separation, is there? So I guess you can be at many places at once, but here, Dad? Here on Terra Firma? It's pretty linear and straightforward most of the time with a few bright moments of Grace. Anyway, I’m rambling. I’m just asking, could you surprise me sometimes and just show up?
"You bet." Dad says.
"Thanks. I would really appreciate that," I say.
I can feel his gentle hand on my shoulder again.
"Could you stay with me awhile?" I ask.
"Sure."
For a while, my Dad and I walk up the trail, his spirit just a little behind me. It feels real nice. Then suddenly, I feel him stop on the trail. I turn around and look at the empty space.
"What?" I say.
"I gotta go. I'll be back soon," Dad says.
"Oh. OK." I say, a little sad that he has to leave so soon.
"I'll be back," he says.
"OK. I see you when you get back."
And then, I don't feel him around at all. Here one minute, gone the next.
Alone, I march up the trail that grows ever steeper and steeper. Off to my right, are stacks of 20 and 30 foot high granite boulders. To my left is a tall ridge line of Junipers and Mexican Blue Oaks. I sigh.
"Just me, me and me now. And God too I suppose." I say to the land.
The next couple hours I hike all around the Stronghold Proper, up to the Saddle, up hill and down. Seeing a lot, thinking very little. The 100 degree dry heat releasing the strong fragrances of Juniper into the air. I feel intoxicated from my own endorphins, from the strong Juniper smells, and from being slightly dehydrated.
Suddenly I have a bad feeling but I ignore it and head toward a ridge line I have that ridge in my wheel house. The negative intuition increases. I slow my walk but don't stop, but it has my attention now. I get a few hundred yards up the slope when I stop dead in my tracks. At my feet is a primitive shed made of two long sticks and a piece of old tin. I look up from the tin and see under a tree, a few feet away, a clean bedroll neatly tied up. A plastic gallon jug of water sits beside the bedroll, and an old ratty blue jean jacket hangs from a branch of a tree. This isn't a hiker's camp. This is a homeless man's camp. Or maybe even worse. An outlaw’s camp. My adrenal glands open wide. My heart races and I slowly back away from the campsite. I look around slowly yet see no one, feel no one. I exhale hard.
"I wish I had a gun with me right now," I say in a whisper to myself.
I walk slowly back to the trail and begin to put some distance between me and that odd campsite. After many yards, I begin to relax. I sometimes feel the malevolent eyes of others on me when I'm out hiking in the wild. I feel blessed that I can sense danger. Luckily today, I feel no eyes. That is a very good thing. I’m safe.
But I still want to get on top of that southeastern ridge. The land is thick with Juniper trees, Mexican Live Oaks, Beargrass, Chaparral and Manzanita bushes. The scents of all these plants mix and intertwine now so I don’t know where the Juniper starts and the Beargrass ends. I'll thread my way carefully upward. Over there. I bet I can make it up to the ridge between those rocks and those trees. Yes, I think I can, looking at the land in front of me.
My head feels a little warm now. I unhook my Krispy Kreme baseball cap from my backpack and put it on. I scan the lay of the land in front of me, charting my first bushwhack through the trees and head off the trail. I squat-walk under some Junipers, then carefully step over a dead Manzanita, then grab a handful of boulder and pull myself up, past the next pitch.
I arrive at a large group of boulders, just shy of the southeastern ridge. It'll be an easy up to the ridge now, but I'm completely taken by these rocks. 'Come back here,’ says the still voice. I think I will, but I have to make that ridge. I take the last pitch and in no time, I’m at the ridge line, looking full face at The Stronghold Towers. They are something to see, huge domes against a deep blue sky. But as I sit down and drink some water, I almost immediately feel that this is not the place for me to be, that I need to go down to the boulder group just below. I don't argue nor doubt the still voice this time. I just shoulder my water pack, and head back down.
Soon, I arrive back at the group of large twenty-five foot tall boulders and find a sliver of blessed shade among them, providing welcome relief from the mid-afternoon sun. I sit. I drink some more. I do little else. Maybe a quick thought of thanks for these rocks, but that’s about I think about. I may be getting a bit heat-strokey now, but I'm OK. Won't be the first time. Won't be the last.
After a little rest, I begin to investigate my surroundings, climbing through the thin slots between boulders, gazing at the beautiful red Manzanita bushes that grow among the rocks, touching the deep holes in the rocks that look like places where women have ground grain but in actuality are just places where the rain has settled for hundreds of years.
Then I get this strong feeling of Déjà vu. A real live 'I've been here before' thing, even though I know I haven't been at these rocks ever in my lifetime. But suddenly I feel like I know every inch of this place, like it’s old hat to me.
And then I feel a parting of a veil between two worlds, like I’m in two times at once, long time ago and right now. Here in 2005 and there in the 1870’s
Here, a middle-aged white man from the South, drawing a small spiral in the sand beneath a boulder.
There, a twelve-year-old Apache boy, playing with a stick on the same piece of ground.
Same place, same soul, two different bodies, two different times. I could almost hear the squeal of other children playing nearby, smell the wood cookfire smoke, sense the many people all around me. But I close my eyes and open them again, and it’s just me in the Summer of 2005, with the easy wind and the slow heat. I feel the curtain close. I finish drawing my spiral with my finger and stand up. I notice a black raven flying overhead
"I give this to you as a gift," I say, to the bird and to those on the other side as well.
I find a high rock and say my Four Directions Prayer:
"To the East, God and Humanness.
To the North, Courage and Vulnerability.
To the West, Self-Awareness and Forgiveness.
And to the South, Feelings and Wisdom.
To the Sky, to the Earth, and to All-There-Is.
Ok, God. Let's do it."
I step down off the rock and head back to the shade. I rest and breathe and drink some more water.
A little time passes. A lot of time passes. I get pleasantly lost.
And then I’m back.
I have a couple hours of Sun left. I prepare for the trip down. I take a couple of pictures of things, but today, the best pictures are in my head, my eyes and my soul.
I shoulder my waterpack and rock-hop down the ridge. It’s an easy traverse back to the main trail. In no time, I'm heading down. Two and half miles to the truck, I suppose. I’m tired in more ways than one.
The sun blazes hot and I feel a bit of sunburn on my shoulder. My Krispy Kreme hat keeps my head cool but it's still awfully hot. Then I have a thought on how to cool down, and I begin to smile. I haven't seen anyone for hours now, and it's getting late in the day, so I’m guessing I’m the only one on the mountain. I probably won't see a soul until I get back to the parking lot. My smile broadens.
A few minutes later, I imagine what this scene might look like to say, perhaps, the ghost of an Apache woman sitting on a rock nearby.
She might see a white man, thin but with a little muscle, with a funny-looking backpack on his back, hiking shoes on his feet and a Krispy Kreme baseball cap on his head. And wearing nothing else. His white ass as bright as a rising full moon.
"Nice ass," she’d say.
[Regarding Cochise's Death]
It appears Cochise had been sick for years with an ailment that was mostly like stomach cancer. He became weaker and weaker over time, and got drunk a lot, probably to kill the pain. Tiswin was his drink of choice, a fermented corn beer that the Apaches brewed.
It's said that Cochise had groomed his son Teza to take over as chief of the Chokonens Apaches, and as he neared death, he handed the reins over to Teza. Cochise’s last official words to his band were to “…forever live in peace with the Whites and to always do what Jeffords tells you to do…”
Teza's first official act as chief was to find the witch who had made his father ill. Teza found someone who fit the bill, but Tom Jeffords convinced him, to let the witch go.
His father continued to get sicker and sicker, lapsing in and out of comas for weeks.
On June 7th, 1874, Tom Jeffords visited his old friend for the last time. They talked a bit, and as Jeffords was about to leave, Cochise said,
"Do you think you'll ever see me alive again?"
With his typical bluntness, Jeffords said, "No, I don't think I will. I think that by tomorrow night, you'll be dead."
"Yes, I think so too," said Cochise.
"Do you think we'll ever meet again?" Cochise asked his friend.
"I don't know," said Jeffords, "What's your opinion about it?"
"I have been thinking a good deal about it while I've been sick here, and I believe we will, Tom. Good friends will also meet again...up there," Cochise said, pointing to the sky.
Cochise died the next morning. The news spread very fast. It was said by Fred Hughes, Jeffords' assistant on the reservation that "…the howl that went up from these people was fearful to listen to and it kept up throughout the night until daylight the next morning…"
Cochise's body was prepared for burial. Probably his wife Dos-teh-seh was in charge of this. They bathed his body, combed his hair and dressed him in his best clothes. His burial probably took place the day after his death. Usually the custom was that only close relatives and some extended family were present at a burial of an Apache chief, but Cochise was the exception, allowing all of his band to be present, if they wished to come.
Jeffords spoke later of what he experienced that day:
"It is a custom among these Indians, when one of their number dies, to burn some clothing, blankets, etc. at the grave of the deceased. Upon the death of Cochise, I found that his whole band had stripped themselves of almost their entire clothing and burnt it at his grave..."
"He was dressed in his best war garments, decorated with war paint and head feathers, and wrapped in a splendid heavy red woolen blanket that Colonel H. C. Hooker had given him. He was then placed on his favorite horse. He and his horse were then guided to a rough and lonely place among the rocks and chasms in the Stronghold, where there was a deep fissure in the cliff. The horse was killed and dropped into the depths. Cochise's favorite dog was also killed. His gun and other arms were then thrown in, and last, Cochise was lowered with lariats into the rocky sepulcher, deep in the gorge."
Tom Jeffords nor any Apaches had ever told where Cochise was buried. Its location is still a secret to this day.
Sources: "Indeh" by Eve Ball; "Cochise, Chiricahua Apache Chief" by Edwin R. Sweeney; "The Apache Indians" by Frank C. Lockwood.
















