The Transpersonal Papers: Chapter Four: "The Haw River: Home/Not Home"
The Transpersonal Papers: Chapter Four:
“The Haw River: Home/Not Home,
North Carolina”
© 2003, 2008
“Oh, boy…”
Buck has just lifted the head off of the engine of the Model A Ford. The number one cylinder is filled with rust. The number two, three and four cylinders are fine but that doesn't matter. The number one is seized.
"Looks like Stuart didn't drain the water out of the radiator when he put the Huckster up on blocks. It was probably a leaky head casket," says Buck.
"Looks that way, doesn't it?" I say.
"Damn."
Buck sprays a bucket of WD-40 in the number one cylinder.
"Well, we'll let that sit for a day and see if we can break it free tomorrow," Buck says.
Fat chance. I knew we were in trouble earlier this morning when I tried to hand crank the engine and it wouldn't budge. So much for the dream of taking my dead father's Model A Huckster Wagon to Tucson. Hell, so much for the alternate dream of selling it for 15 grand and paying off my credit card debts. My guess now is that it's worth five to eight thousand as is. (I got seven grand for it, a few months later, from a guy in Ohio.)
"Yea, I'll try and crank it tomorrow. Buck, thanks a lot for trying to get this old thing going. But I think it's froze up pretty good."
"Well, if we break it loose, I'll put the head back on for you, after you've flown back to Tucson."
"I appreciate that, " I say.
This little trip back to the ancestral home in Raleigh has cost me more than I thought it would. Plane ticket. Battery and parts for the truck that won't turn over. Vacation time from the day job. Shipping cost for a hula-hoop with Christmas lights on it, that I haven't even used in any photographs. Well, nothing ventured, nothing gained, as my Dad used to say.
I decide to go for a drive around some of my old haunts this afternoon, in my sister Pamela's car. Might as well. The truck’s dead. My sister lives in the Raleigh house now. My mother Mary has come down from Virginia to visit with me, since I'm back for a long weekend. I rarely come back home to North Carolina anymore. Mary and Pamela are off doing something. Shopping or a movie I suppose.
Buck has left and some clouds have moved in. Living in the desert for 20 years has left me unequipped for the Eastern Woodlands. The low ceiling of overcast makes me feel very claustrophobic. I do find comfort in the smells of composting pine needles and damp moss but not enough for me to ever consider moving back to The South. The only thing reminiscent of my home in the desert, here in North Carolina, is the occasional tapestry of The Virgin of Guadeloupe hanging from the eves of the front porch of a Mexican immigrant's home. Granted, there are tortillas in the grocery stores now in Raleigh but they are machine-made and uniform, not the imperfect handmade beauties I find in Tucson. And even though I've woken up in my old childhood bed the past couple mornings, the house, the town, the state, all feel foreign to me. Home but not home anymore.
I used to think that what Thomas Wolfe was saying when he said ‘We can't go back home again’ was simply because we have changed. But Home changes too.
I have to use a road map just to get out of Raleigh now. I don’t know the roads anymore for they are much wider or just plain new.
Today I use a map to guide me to Chatham County. For sure, I usually entered into Chatham County from the Chapel Hill side, back in the day, but this is a little embarrassing, having to use a map. As I get to what I thought would be the outskirts of Raleigh, I'm actually still in town, or at least the suburbs. Strange to see huge two stories houses sitting in what used to be cow pastures, as if they fell out of the sky. Small plots with big houses, arranged at odd angles. Who thought this looked good? Who thought that was a good idea? Oh, yea. Realtors did.
Finally, I've left the suburbs of Cary and Apex and am heading west on US 64 in my sister's white Oldsmobile. Thick stands of Loblolly Pines flank the road. (Least they haven’t cut down all the Loblollies.) Convenience stores along Highway 64 advertise Deer salt and hunting stamps. Now we’re talking. The girl, who just sold me a couple packages of Nekot crackers and a soda, sounds like she is from here, unlike many of the transplants in Raleigh, who sound like they came from Jersey. Pickup trucks replace SUVs. For only the second time since I've been back in North Carolina, I feel like I'm at home. (The first time was hearing the Drive By Truckers, a smart Southern Rock band, play a couple of nights ago at the Cat’s Cradle.)
I cross Jordan Lake, a man-made affair that was just filling up with water when I left North Carolina in the early 1980's. It's full now. And I begin to worry that the Haw River may not be a river anymore, but just part of this lake. God, I hope not. I check the map. I’m getting close. I hope I even recognize the bridge. Sure enough, after a few more miles, up ahead I can see the Haw River Bridge. It’s actually two bridges now, for US 64 is four lanes all the way to Pittsboro. (It wasn’t that way in the 70’s.) My heart rate goes us. Will I see a lake or a river? As I cross the bridge I look over the side.
"Yes!" I say softly. I’m thrilled. It looks the same. It’s still a river with rapids.
After a little effort, I find my way down to the western bank of The Haw. Twenty plus years ago, you'd just pull off the two lane black top and parked by the 10 foot tall cast concrete cross that proclaimed 'Jesus is Lord.' (The cross is gone.) I park the Olds, grab my Rollei and my Brownie and head for the forest along the river, to look for that old trail I used to walk on. Unbelievably it’s still there. A little trashed near the road but not bad. Just a couple of beer cans. A hundred feet further down the trail, and all signs of Man’s flotsam and jetsam are gone, save an occasional fishing lure. I'm thrilled that after all these years, The Haw is little changed. Seems to be just a bit wider but the rapids are just as wild as I recall from college days.
We used to drive down here in my white ’66 Karmin Ghia, my Dad’s hand-me-down car, that I got when I flunked out of college. Elliot, Mott, and I would cruise down from Chapel Hill. We'd get stoned on the way and walk down this trail that parallels the river for about a mile, get lit again, and walk back. Doesn't sound like much, just three college kids getting stoned, but it was important to us. Being Nature Boys, we had to get back to some real woods ever once in a while after sitting in classes day after day. One time, I grabbed a 30-pound granite rock and carried it back to the car. Elliot and Mott thought, at the time, I was nuts for hauling around that big stone. They thought I was crazy most of the time, but then never shamed me, nor I them. (It was a great gift we gave each other.) And I was pretty odd back then. (Still am.) I explained to them that the rock was to be part of a sculpture I had visualized. (That big rock, by the way, never made it into a sculpture but I lugged it from house to house for a good number of years. I think it’s in some thick woods near Boone, North Carolina now.) That old concrete “Jesus is Lord’ cross was briefly featured in one of my experimental 8 mm movies, from those art school days. (I did finally get my B.F.A.) Brought women down here too, to see if the woods scared them. (I liked women who aren’t frightened of the woods.) Fond memories I have of The Haw, even if they are a little foggy due to the passing of time and the amount of THC I had in my brain back then.
The trail narrows as I go, just like it always did. The water isn't high but high enough that the river does roar. The overcast sky isn't bothering me now. Even when I walk into a spider's web that spans the trail, I'm not as freaked as I used to be as a college kid. (Spiders scared me back then. I got bite once and was sick in bed and itchy for a week.) The Haw has changed some. A few feet wider. Some new trees. Some old trees wider in girth or dead. But the sound and the soul of the river is actually the same, after twenty-five years. (The Haw Indians once lived here. The word 'haw' meant river in their language. They were the River Indians.)
I walk by some small rapids on my way to the big rapids, those canoe-crushers with the stout twenty-foot bluff that overlooks the river. That was our destination, back in the 70's; those big rapids. Oaks, Elms and Poplars and a few Pines fill the forest. I pass the old tall bluff without knowing I had. The land is thicker now with young trees and old growth. Not the prime viewing spot of twenty-five years ago, but a sweet spot nonetheless. The large rapids are still churning as hard as ever, still the nemesis, I presume, of weekend canoers from Durham and Chapel Hill. I stand on some rocks that push into the river and breathe in the pounding sound and the light spray. The rapids sing its song in low and high notes.
After a while, I head back toward the car, but I stop along the way at the smaller rapids. I sit on a set of boulders close to the shore. I carve a spiral in some moss but it looks contrived. I shoot it with the Rollei anyway and apologize to the moss for disturbing it. Then I take out the Brownie and simply shoot some of the rapids; some rocks, some trees, some of the river. I blur the right pairing image, then mate it with the left sharp one, making a diptych in-camera. I do this technique a number of times, and then I sit on the rocks again, beside the rapids.
Breathe in, breathe out.
Listen. Close my eyes. Keep them closed. Open them.
Across the river on the eastern shore, two Bald Eagles leave their perch in the high branches and glide downstream. I raise my hands above my head, palms out, in salute and prayer to the Eagles. They fly down the river, behind some trees and disappear out of view. I can feel some tears coming. Carolina is still Home. It’s just a little harder to find, is all.
I lower my arms, wipe my eyes and gaze at the small rapids at my feet.













