"There Are Killers There,
Yosemite Valley, California"
© 2008 Stu Jenks
It's eighteen hundred and something. Some Miwok Indians escort a few white miners up the Merced River. They come to the edge of a magnificent valley. The Miwoks stop abruptly. This puzzles the White Men. A Miwok man points toward the valley and says in his language:
"There are killers there."
Others of his tribe repeats what he said. Yes, they are killers.
The head honcho white man smiles.
"Yosemite? Yosemite. So that's the name of this place. How do you spell that?"
The Miwoks don't know what the White Man just said, but it looks like he doesn't grasp that they are all risking their lives by enter this valley.
They enter it anyway.
Hence this is how Yosemite got its White Man’s name. Or a story something like this.
The killers that the Miwoks were referring to were a band of Piautes led by chief Tenaya. May not have been such a great guy, Tenaya, for the Mono Piaute Indians of his birth stoned him to death, when he relocated back to his home near Mono Lake after the Mariposa Wars. Seems he stole some horses from his hosts and they didn't care for that too much.
Later, more confusion reined over who were the original inhabitants of Yosemite, when the Miwoks settled into the valley. They were given government housing, not out of pity or as part of the reservation system, but because the Indians made up a large portion of the workforce that was part of the new U.S. Park Service. The Miwoks came to help care for Yosemite and they got paid too. Many Indians still live and work for the government inside the Park, to this day. The government thought the Miwoks had lived there since forever. But the best guess is it was the Paiutes had lived in Yosemite Valley for centuries prior to the Gold Rush of ‘49. The Paiutes were a nomadic tribe, with a warrior culture. In contrast, the Miwoks of California were mostly non-nomadic, and much mellower and more peaceful in nature than their rivals to the east. And the Sierra Nevada Mountains were a natural barrier that keep the tribes apart. Mostly.
There are still some Paiutes and Miwoks in the area surrounding Yosemite National Park. Some have intermarried and generally everyone Native seems to get along. Mostly. Of course there are exceptions. But the Miwok reservations in California are small now, many with casinos that provide great income so they can send their kids to college. But what’s most striking to me, both in Yosemite and all throughout the Central Valley of California, is the general absence of Native People. The Miwoks had few warrior skills and were no match to the White Miners who came in the 1850's or any one else for that matter. And it makes sense that they would be a peaceful people. The land was rich with fish and game. There was plenty of land, plenty of water and it was a mild climate. It was Shangri-La. No need to fight. Let’s share.
So were they killed by the miners or the Paiutes coming from the east? Some were, of course, but that's not what killed most of the Indians, Miwok and Pauites alike, in California. What killed 90% of them was disease, Smallpox and other White childhood illnesses that the Indians had no natural defenses against. The Whites didn't shoot them. They simply coughed on them, and killed them just the same.
Muir Trail. 5 a.m. Still dark. The Full Moon set an hour ago
A Stu Fun Fact: If you want to be alone on a trail in the second most visited National Park in the system, go in the off-season and get up early.
I camped last night in a small city known as The Upper Pines Campground. Why do so many people have to bring their whole house with them when they camp in the wilderness? Does it scare them that much, that they have to bring familiar touchstones of home to combat their urban anxiety? But I got lucky. All the nuclear-powered Coleman Lanterns were either shaded from me by the mammoth fifth-wheels or they were far away. And all the screaming kids were inside by the time I arrived.
I had a dinner of salt and vinegar potato chips and a couple of Clif Bars purchased at a nearby store in Curry Camp. While walking to the store under the full moon, I noticed Yosemite Falls glistening in the moonlight, a grassy meadow spreading between me and the distant cliffs. I saw a nice hoop dance in my mind's eye, but decided on sleep instead. Sure glad I did, for I bet you I wouldn’t be on this trail now if I had shot last night.
All I have with me this morning are some warm clothes, a bottle of water and my Canon backpack that holds the digital with its 70 to 200 mm lens. (The lens has two names. "Cathy Jean" or "My Big White Penis". Depends on my mood.) Being a desert rat, the glorious roar of the Merced River's rapids to my right is enough to heal many a psychic wound. The endorphins that will come from hiking and the pics that will come from the heights will just be bonus points. The real prize is that sound, that space, this place. Just like a two dimensional image can't capture the three dimensional valley called Yosemite, a sound recording can't capture the roar of this river, unless, of course, it's played through monster speakers. But even then, you wouldn't have the musky river smell, nor the humidity of the spray, nor this moment in Time.
I love to shoot nature. I love to record its sounds too, but it never really 'captures' it, nor do I try for that. I work at making something new and universal from these raw materials, and try not get in my own way too much or in God’s way for that matter.
I take a break from hiking and call Craig in the Bay Area. I think I woke him up.
"Hey Craig, it's Stu, calling you from the Muir Trail"
"Hey Bro."
"Amazingly I'm getting cell phone bars in fucking Yosemite. Anyway, you going to be able to come?"
"Sorry, man. I got an appointment I can't miss but I sure wish I could come see you and Yosemite."
"That's OK, Craig. Cathy couldn't make it either, but it's nice of you two to want to come and share this with me. Just the thought of coming is very nice."
"Hey, by the way," I say, "I figured out what Yosemite’s about."
"What's that?"
"Yosemite is about Granite. Lots and lots of Granite. In a very big way."
We both laugh.
I can see why Ansel Adams plowed this field so thoroughly. The gray tones on the granite walls, even in the predawn light are exquisite. Such a range of tone, from snow gray to deep black and all the shades in-between. And a large format camera with black and white film would eat these tones for lunch. I'll see what I can get with the 70/200. I feel a little sad though, for the ghost of Ansel, and for the spirits of the Miwoks and Piautes. Yosemite Valley isn't wilderness anymore. Other parts of the park are but not The Valley. And living and growing up here, and dying and growing old here, as Native People did for a millenium, must have been the North American Indian equivalent of living on a South Sea island, with banana trees everywhere and all the fish you can eat. And poor Ansel probably would get lost on the valley floor now, with its one way roads, its huge cafeteria, its long rows of two story apartments and its tourists who carry their houses on their backs. Least the Granite hasn't changed that much, I suppose.
I was wrong back in Coalmine Canyon. Just because I've never been someplace before, doesn't mean I won't see how the place has changed over time. A blind man can see it here in Yosemite.
Higher and higher I climb. Not an easy trail but not that hard either, made even sweeter by the complete lack of humans. (They are all asleep below.) Miles pass. The light continues to grow. I take some silhouette images of trees. I shoot distant waterfalls and water close at hand. Will I make it to Half Dome's base? Probably not. I'm not driven to 'bag' that rock. It's not about the destination. It's about the walking, the seeing, the being. It always is, really. The Now, you know. There is only right here, right now, be it this magnificent trail or a dirty back alley in Tucson. The illusion is that there is ever a Somewhere Else. And this isn't just blind Woo Woo I'm talking here. This is an experienced truth. This, I believe, is a central Truth in the world: That what we see, feel, taste, touch, hear, smell, walk, kiss, pray and breathe, exists only in the Present. Try kissing your girlfriend tomorrow, today. Can't be done.
I take some more images but not that many, for the picture-taking is starting to get in the way. It's as if the glass of the lens filters the deeper feelings. That happens sometimes
Up a couple more miles. Pray. Drink. See. Feel. Smell. Walk.
Dawn is here. Dawn is now. The gray tones come alive in my eyes.
My eyes. The best camera of all.
Inspiration Point. Late morning. A shitload of people. Couldn't get to Glacier Point. Snowed in. It is what it is. It's OK. Getting close to Noon now. It's a clusterfuck here but kind of a fun clusterfuck. Fun to see all these tourists taking pictures of each other with Yosemite Valley behind them. I take some shots of them taking pictures of each other. That’s fun too.
But it's kind of sad looking into the valley. I know there are no Indians except the few Miwoks who work for the Park Service. No campfire smoke rising in columns below me from native camps. There is less fish in the river, less game in the dells. Lots of people there though, some taking the obligatory shots of Yosemite Valley from this roadside pulloff, but a few do dwell and take it all in, here and there. Not all Americans are jerks. The Second Noble Truth.
I watch folks come and go. Among all the people around me I see a nice looking family of three. I have an idea.
"Excuse me," I say to a man who is a bit younger than I, " Would you take my picture?"
"Sure," he says, smiling.
I hand him Cathy Jean.
"This is quite a camera," he says.
"Yes it is," I say, "And thanks for doing this. I rarely get any pictures of me in such places as this."
He raises the Canon to his eye.
"How does it work?"
I quickly show him.
I stand, my back to Yosemite Valley.
"How's my hair?" I have camping hair. It's going every which a way.
"You look fine," says his wife with a tone in her voice that says, 'Don't be so vain.' Sorry, hon. Too late.
I cock my head slightly to one side.
I smile.
All in all, it's been a great morning. Good people, a great river, even greater Granite.
Click goes my Canon.